Riofrío obtained organic certification from the European Union in 2001, making it the first-ever caviar-maker with the credential.
It remains a point of pride, but the company is not resting on its laurels, according to Riofrío Brand Development Manager Lea Fallourd.
Riofrío’s 1.5 metric tons of annual production limits how aggressive the company can be with expanding its sales, but the company does have some room for growth at its farm in Loja, Grenada, Spain, according to Fallourd.
But one thing Riofrío will never do, she said, is compromise its principles.
“We are committed to organic breeding, organic farming, using no medication, no antibiotics, and no borax or preservatives on the end-product,” Fallourd said. “We think that is what makes our caviar the best in the world.”
Riofrío’s farm is fed by clear streams flowing from the mountains of Grenada. Because of its cold temperatures, the company’s sturgeon grow more slowly, taking 16 years to reach the stage where their eggs can be harvested.
Riofrío’s osietra caviar is highly sought-after, but its distinctive offering is caviar from the naccarii sturgeon (Acipenser naccarii), a species native to Southern Europe that is rarely raised for caviar.
“We have many chefs in Spain and across Europe who insist on [using] our caviar,” Fallourd said.
Riofrío’s organic certification isn’t as valuable a marketing tool as might be expected, according to Fallourd, who compares the situation to organic wines, which do not elicit major premiums from consumers. But the company remains committed to being organic because its leadership is convinced it is the best and only proper way to raise sturgeon and create caviar.
“The taste is better, and it is the right thing to do,” she said. “Organic is a way of ensuring a good life conditions for the sturgeons and the least impact on the environment.”
As far as Fallourd knows, there are only three certified organic sturgeon farms in Europe, with the others located in France and Romania. She said it’s equally rare for caviar makers to avoid using borax, or sodium borate, to lengthen shelf-life.
“When you don't use borax, it really gives you a bigger constraint and makes everything more complicated,” she said.
But again, the company believes the purity of the final product – containing just sturgeon roe and salt – is worth the pains it takes to deliver.
“Our customers tell us there’s a difference,” Fallourd said. “Last year, we managed to sell our production. Of course we have a limit and we can't go to infinity, but we can still grow our production a little bit. And the idea is then to get more people to realize the quality of the product and seek it out.”
